BIRD SELLER BOULEVARD — JOSEPH L. GARCIA
DESPITE the presence of two of the best-known universities and (for a long while) two of the largest media and entertainment networks in the country, there’s something simply suburban about Quezon City, fondly nicknamed QC.
Another QC (Quezon Club that is), is rising in QC, giving back a little oomph to what was once the country’s capital (it’s a long story; look it up).
Solaire Resort North, the entertainment complex’s branch up here, invited BusinessWorld for a glamorous night in Quezon Club, set to open on Sept. 26. We don’t use the word “glamor” lightly: think tropical chic interiors with cane chairs, brocade, tigers, lions (no bears) woven into the plush cushions; and the same motif repeated in the borders of the china. Cap that with an evening of international dancers performing to hits by Madonna and Mariah (with appealing visuals on a clearer-than-crystal mirror LED screen), and we’d say we had a pretty good night.
The menu is impressive with a decidedly international flair: think foie gras, and oysters topped with caviar. For the mains, we ordered the Lamb Rack with sweet snap pea puree and port wine jus (P2,200; glamor does not come cheap), and Sous Vide Duck Breast with sweet potato, orange jus, and cowboy beans (P2,800). The lamb had a very mild taste, and the accoutrements refreshing and lively. The duck had an excellently aggressive savory flavor and hints of smoke in a mildly sweet sauce that accented the duck’s vigor. “It’s London luxury brasseries,” Sandro Alessandrini, Director of Food and Beverage for Solaire Resort North, said about the menu’s inspiration.
A DELICIOUS VARIETY OF COCKTAILSWe went through the club’s signature cocktails list, having six of the eight offerings (between P550 to P650). What the food offerings have in international flair, the cocktails fight back with local indulgence.
For example, some of the drinks are inspired by Filipino art: there’s the Amorsolo Rice Highball (Plantation Original Dark Rum, Horchata Fizz, pandan syrup, and marshmallow) — ambitious, but we were wont to avoid it because it tasted far too much like kakanin (Filipino rice cakes — if that’s your thing, you might get some pleasure having that as a smooth and light drink). Sabel’s Appletini, named after National Artist Benedicto “BenCab” Cabrera’s hapless muse, Sabel, might drive you nuts: it’s made of Drouhin Selection calvados (a French apple brandy traditionally from Normandy), homemade pear vermouth, apple syrup, and apple peel bitters. There’s an indicator of symbols up to three indicating a cocktail’s strength, and Sabel wasn’t kidding with its three-numbered rating. It was strong, and despite the chill, it went down your throat quite warmly, and had a slightly woody aftertaste (we mean all of that as a compliment).
The Spillarium (Buttered Volcan Blanco Tequila and Corn Cordial) had just one symbol after it, designating it as a weaker cocktail: reader, it was not. The corn cordial gave it a flavor akin to straight bourbon, and did taste light, but razor-sharp. A tiny blotter with a small artwork dissolves in the drink to give it a tint like watercolors.
The Sonata Lady (Dewar’s 15 Years, Lemon Saccharum, Mathilde Peach, honey ginger syrup, lemon, and egg white), made my companion say, “Now that’s a cocktail.” Served in a stemmed teacup, it was light, bright, and sparkling. The Breakfast Arabesque (Boodles Gin, banana syrup, cereal milk, and lemon juice) had the same quality.
Our favorite was the Bird Seller Boulevard, inspired by the classic Boulevardier (whiskey, sweet vermouth, and Campari), their version used Monkey Shoulder Whisky, Tomato Vermouth, and Salted Egg House Amaro. Served in a giant ceramic egg within a birdcage, not only is it a show, but it was a delightful play as a savory drink with a juicy quality that made one’s mouth water (the sides are also rimmed with salted egg, so we spent a few minutes licking that too). While our favorite, it was simply too rich to drink multiples of it.
What we did order repeatedly (while watching very enthusiastic dancers giving their all to Donna Summer playing in the background) was the Smoked Genesis (Los Sietes Doba Yej Mezcal, Volcan Blanco Tequila, Pineapple Arugula Saccharum, strega, and balsamic vinegar). It’s quite spicy, deliciously warm down the throat, and given a savory edge by the mezcal.
“We are quite unique as a venue in Quezon City,” said Mr. Alessandrini. “I don’t think there’s anything as high-end as we are: obviously in a luxury five-star resort.”
Quezon Club at Solaire Norte opens to the public on Sept. 26. — Joseph L. Garcia
